Caledonian Sleeper – Hotel on Wheels?

After being in service for approximately 2 and a half years, I decided it was time to try out the new “Mark 5” Carriages on the Caledonian Sleeper between London and Scotland.

These new coaches replaced the 40 year old carriages that previously operated the service which I had the pleasure of travelling on in 2015.

How the Sleeper Works

The Caledonian Sleeper is an umbrella term for a number of different services that run between London and Scotland 6 nights a week (no departures on a Saturday)

A map showing the Caledonian Sleeper network CREDIT: Eurail.com

Two trains leave London, “The Highlander” and “The Lowlander” and as it sounds they serve different parts of Scotland.

The Highlander departs from London at 2115 and runs up the West Coast Mainline to Edinburgh Waverley where the train divides into 3 sections running to:

  • Inverness
  • Aberdeen
  • Fort William

The Lowlander departs from London and also runs up the West Coast Mainline to Carstairs where it splits into 2 sections, these portions run to:

  • Edinburgh Waverley
  • Glasgow Central

The same process works in reverse with each section departing independently and combining at either Carstairs or Edinburgh Waverley.

Boarding Time

My train began boarding at 2230 from London’s Euston Station, Platform 15 to be specific.

I was booked in Coach G, room 9, however, when I presented my ticket to the staff on the platform they informed me that I had been moved to another room due to a fault. The staff were friendly and apologetic over the inconvenience even though it was outside of their control.

The exterior of the carriage that would take me to Edinburgh

The Room

I booked a “Classic” room for my journey to Edinburgh. When travelling alone like I was you get solo occupancy of the room, although both beds will be prepared for you.

As you can see, the rooms are small, but come with everything you will need.

As you can see from the picture above, the room comes with a sink, a bin, a pull out table, plug sockets, 2 water bottles, a sleep kit, a window (with pull down blind) and a bunk bed.

For both bunks, there are lighting controls and an attendant call button. Temperature controls are next to the bottom bunk only.

All rooms are unlocked, a room key is provided in the cabin, it is your responsibility to set it up, however, instructions are provided.

Both bunks will have a number of different items laid out, as shown below:

This is everything that will be waiting for you on your bed.

Starting from the top left and going clockwise the following is shown:

  • A menu for room service
  • Breakfast Card
  • Health and Safety Card – much like airlines it highlights important instructions and equipment locations
  • A Sleep Kit – this includes ear buds and an eye mask
  • Accommodation Guide – This just explains how the service will run

A pencil should be provided to fill out the breakfast card, however, it took me at least 90 minutes to find it – it was on the top bunk!

Room Service

The pandemic had forced the closure of the club car onboard the train, however, food and drink were still available for purchase through room service.

To use it, press the attendant button which connects you with the room host via a speaker and microphone. Tell them what you would like and they will bring it to the room and charge you for it there. I did not use it, however, one downside I noticed was that I heard everything that the couple in the room next to me ordered (which was 2 hot chocolates and 2 tunnocks caramel wafers)

After Departure

We departed London Euston on time at 2350. I placed my breakfast card on my door as instructed and at approximately 0030 it was collected by the attendant. They also took my payment for it at the same time, so if your plan was to go straight to sleep, let the staff know in advance.

At around 0100 I settled down for the night and went to sleep.

Was it Comfortable?

The bedding and pillows were very soft and comfortable, and I was able to fall asleep almost instantly.

However, despite having the air conditioning set to the middle setting, I woke up just outside Preston in a room that was very hot. I turned the temperature control down to its coldest setting, however I found it made little difference.

Further to that, now that I was awake, I noticed the train itself was rather loud and the ride quality was not great. I fell asleep around 0445 and woke up again around 0600.

I would say that if I had not woke up halfway through the journey I probably would have been able to sleep the whole way.

Breakfast Is Served

I normally do not eat breakfast, but seeing as I had not had much to eat the previous night, and still had to travel another 2.5 hours home I decided to pay for a bacon roll, reflecting on it, I wish I didn’t!

Having paid £3.75 for it I was expecting something relatively fresh and something that could keep me going until I got home, however, as the pictures below will show, that is far from what I received.

Safe to say when I got back to Glasgow an hour after arrival in Edinburgh, a second breakfast was purchased.

Arrival Into Edinburgh

We arrived into Edinburgh on-time, however, due to staff sickness the entire train ran into Edinburgh, rather than half going to Glasgow.

Arrival into Edinburgh Platforms 7/11

As a result, ticket acceptance was in place with ScotRail from Glasgow to Edinburgh.

My Thoughts

Having seen all the hype over the new coaches I was expecting a lot from these new trains, however, I was left feeling something was missing from this journey.

The staff were fantastic whenever I spoke to them and they were doing their best given the circumstances of this journey.

However, having travelled on the old coaches as well, I did not feel that these coaches were not worth the new premium price that was being charged, although I may have just been unlucky with my journey.

Hopefully the next time I travel with them, the bacon roll will be slightly more substantial and the temperature control will work properly.

Published by George Nugent

I’m George Nugent, an independent travel writer with a focus on rail, air, and coach journeys in Scotland. My aim is to deliver honest, data-driven reviews backed by clear reporting — helping people cut through the noise and make smarter decisions. When I’m not writing, I’m often looking at statistics to tell a story. Follow along for independent insights into the world of travel.

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